Friday, March 20, 2015
Pumpkin Ravioli and Delicata Squash with Sage Brown Butter Sauce, from Gael
(Via Seattle Times Magazine, 2015)
1 Delicata squash, halved, seeded, cut into ¼ inch slices
Pumpkin or squash ravioli
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
8 sage leaves
Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
1. Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Place squash slices on a lightly oiled baking sheet and brush the tops with oil. Sprinkle with salt. Roast for about 20 minutes, until tender and golden brown in places, flipping the squash pieces once.
2. Boil the ravioli in salted water according to directions on the package.
3. While the ravioli is boiling, brown the butter.** Add the sage leaves when the butter starts smelling sweet and nutty. The butter will foam up, and then the mixture will settle again as the sage leaves crisp. Swirl the pan gently to move the sage around so that you can watch the color of the butter. When the butter is ready, remove the pan from the heat and cover it while you drain the pasta.
4. To serve, spread the drained ravioli on a platter. Top with the squash. Spoon the brown butter and sage on top. Sprinkle with grated cheese. Serve right away.
**TIPS FOR BROWNING BUTTER
To brown butter, cut it into 1/4-inch slices and put them in a light-colored saucepan so you can watch the color change. Slowly melt the butter over medium-low heat, gently swirling the pan so it melts evenly. As the butterfat melts and the water is released, the liquid butter will begin to crackle and sputter, a white foam will begin to accumulate, and the bubbles created by the boiling butter will look thin and watery. Slowly the crackle sound will quiet and an oily sheen will cover the surface.
When the butter is almost silent, the bubbles that form will be tiny, and the foam that accumulated at the start will have dissipated and been replaced by a more bubbly foam. You’ll also begin to notice browning on the sides of the pan. At this point you should start checking the color of the liquid butter and of the milk solids on the bottom of the pan.
When it’s ready, foam will cover the liquid; the aroma will be sweet and smell like toasted nuts; and the color will have changed from yellow to golden to caramel as the solids turn brown (be sure they don’t turn black!). Use it right away or pour it into a container (leaving some or all of the solids behind) and refrigerate for later.